Exfoliating is an essential step in any skincare routine. It sloughs off dead skin cells and unclogs pores while leaving your skin fresh and glowy. You could be using the nicest skincare products in the world, but if you’re not exfoliating on the regular, those fancy serums and creams might not be living up to their potential because you’ve got a lot of dead skin cell buildup.
Not to mention, starting your exfoliating routine early will have your future self thanking you. “Exfoliating young skin serves mostly to keep skin glowing and blemish-free,” says Suneel Chilukuri, MD, of Refresh Dermatology. “As a teenager and young adult, your body naturally has more cellular turnover and often greater sebum production. Natural cell turnover slows with age, which results in pigmentary changes (sunspots), fine lines, and dryness. Some would say exfoliating becomes even more important at this stage to keep stimulate new cell growth and healthier skin.”
But that doesn’t mean it’s just for those with youthful skin. It benefits everyone, regardless of age. For those with “mature” skin, Chilukuri says that regular exfoliating will promote cell turnover and prevent a sallow appearance over time. Women with mature skin might be afraid to exfoliate because they’re wary of damaging or drying out their skin, but it’s still an important step if you’re doing it correctly and using the right products.
So what are some signs that you’re not exfoliating enough if you’re over 40? Chilukuri gave us a few watch-outs:
1. Your skin is dull: Chilukuri says if you’re not exfoliating enough, you might experience flaky, dull, more yellowed skin. Thank you, dead skin cells.
2. You’re using more products: This goes back to your products not being as effective when you have a buildup of dead skin cells. “People may find that they are using more products like moisturizers because the skin surface allows more water loss,” Chilukuri explains. You could be slathering on that expensive moisturizer or cream for nothing. Who knew exfoliating might be able to save you a buck or at least reduce your need to restock so much?
3. Your skin is drier and more irritated: “With each birthday, there is a cumulative effect of pollution and sun exposure,” Chilukuri says. “The upper layers of the skin (epithelium and upper dermis) are thin, and the cells have more space between them at a microscopic level. As a result of the skin barrier disruption, there is greater water loss, called transepidermal water loss (TEWL).” When the barrier is compromised, you might experience annoying skin irritations or issues.
It’s important to note that all exfoliants are not created equal, and if you have mature skin, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. “Most mature skin tends to be a bit drier, so enzymes are a good choice,” Chilukuri explains. “Some mature skin can experience menopausal acne, but it can’t be treated the same way we treat teenage acne. Gentle exfoliants, retinols, and peels are still a good choice for them.” He also recommends chemical peels and fine-grain mechanical exfoliants.
If you go for an in-office treatment, Chilukuri says many of his patients come in monthly for a gentle superficial chemical peel, like Ultra Peel by PCA Skin, which he says contains a higher percentage of lactic acid to improve the surface and hydrate the skin.
What you want to avoid are overly aggressive mechanical exfoliants, which can cause damage no matter your skin type or age. “Any scrubs with large particles like apricot pits should be avoided, as they can cause micro-tears in the skin at any age,” Chilukuri says. “Anything that is too drying or used too frequently should also be avoided.”
As for how to use these exfoliants at home, not much prep is needed—just make sure your skin is clean and makeup-free. “Do not use a washcloth to apply the exfoliating product,” Chilukuri says. “Use your fingertips and after rinsing off the exfoliating agent, immediately apply a hydrating moisturiser. When using the proper exfoliating product, you should not have to stop your retinol. Always use an excellent mineral sunscreen every day.” And you don’t want to overdo it. You don’t want to exfoliate every day, but a few times a week or once a week will help, depending on your skin.
Ready to try some at-home exfoliating products? Take a look at some of our recommendations below.
Chilukuri recommends weekly at-home enzyme masks, and this one from Elemis is great for gentle exfoliating.
A two-in-one product, this is both a foaming cleanser and a gentle enzymatic peel. It’s recommended to use it two to three times per week, or if you have oily skin, you can use it daily.
These face pads contain mandelic acid (from bitter almond) to exfoliate and willow bark extract to reduce inflammation. It’s ideal for all skin types. All you have to do is apply to clean, dry skin in circular motions—no rinsing required.
With a cocktail of exfoliating ingredients, this liquid exfoliator gently sloughs away lacklustre skin cells to reveal a brighter complexion. We love this efficient yet non-irritating formula. Just apply on to a reusable cotton round and swipe over the skin before applying serums or moisturisers.
This exfoliator from Paula’s Choice is a leave-on product, meaning you don’t have to rinse it off and it will work throughout the day. Made with beta hydroxy acid, it unclogs pores, exfoliates dead skin cells, smooths wrinkles, and evens out your skin tone.
This peel contains fruit ingredients like açaí berry, noni fruit, grapefruit, and sweet pea to destroy free radicals, reduce inflammation, tone and tighten skin, and improve firmness and elasticity. The glycolic acid and lactic acid in the formula exfoliate and hydrate. You don’t have to rinse after using—just apply to the face and neck with cotton or reusable rounds.
This enzyme powder works to clear pores and even out the skin tone. Just put half a teaspoon in wet hands, rub together to create a paste, massage over skin for a minute, and rinse. Ingredients include salicylic acid, colloidal oatmeal, and ginkgo. Plus, it works on pretty much all skin types.
Drunk Elephant’s popular Babyfacial is like getting an in-spa treatment. It always leaves my skin feeling so tingly (in a good way) and refreshed. In addition to AHAs (which exfoliate the skin), the product also contains chickpea flour and pumpkin ferment extract to balance the complexion and gently exfoliate.
You’ve no doubt seen this red exfoliating liquid doing the rounds on social media. It contains a high concentration of exfoliating AHAs and BHAs to unveil a brighter and more even-toned complexion. The formula is quite strong, so use occasionally and leave it on for no longer than 10 minutes.
Good for pretty much all skin types, this face mask contains sweet cherry purée, which is supposed to reduce the signs of ageing. Additionally, lactic acids and a complex of alpha-hydroxy fruit acids will smooth and refresh.
If you’re short on time, this mask from The Body Shop gets to work as your shower with pumpkin enzymes that gently nibble away at dead skin to bring lacklustre skin back to life.
With four treatments in one—cleanser, scrub, peel, and mask—this product gets the job done. Natural AHAs, lactic acid, and fruit enzymes work to exfoliate without leaving your skin dry.
NeoStrata’s glycolic peel system is unique in the way that you pour the entire bottle of solution onto the pads before using any of them. It’s an easy way to just pick one up for use later to quickly exfoliate after cleansing.
Next up, 11 beauty products I wish I’d used in my 20s now that I’m 35.
This article was originally published at an earlier date and has been updated.
